August 23, 2024 - Two Hours on Tancook!

We have lived in Nova Scotia for 30 years and, for much of that time, have talked about going to Tancook Island (technically, Big Tancook Island -- we will use the two interchangeably). Somehow, it has always eluded us - until today, that is. Our long-awaited trek finally happened.

In our planning, we scoured the internet for information but always came up a little short on details to plan our logistics. As a result, we decided to compile a blog that will provide prospective Tancook visitors with a one-stop source of everything they need to know to prepare their own visit.

Planning a trip to Tancook? Here is a list of what we think you need to consider:

1. Getting to Chester, the ferry departure point.

2. Parking in Chester for the duration of your trip.

3. The practicalities of the ferry ride to/from.

4. How to get around Tancook.

5. Eating and using the loo on Tancook.

6. What to see and do on Tancook?

7. How long should you stay on Tancook?

8. How much will it all cost you?

So let's get into each of these in turn.

GETTING TO CHESTER

First of all, getting to Chester. Chester is an hour's drive from Halifax-Dartmouth, adding on a bit of time, of course, if you live in the outer extremities of the city. Make your way to Highway 103, which is now twinned all the way to Exit 6 (Hubbards). Exit 7 (Chester) is experiencing construction, due to the new overpass being built there. So Google Maps may tell you to drive to Exit 8, which is what we did. On the way home, however, you can easily access the #103 eastbound towards HRM via Exit 7. We live in the heart of Dartmouth: we left our driveway at 8:45AM and arrived at the ferry pier at 9:45AM, and that included a stop for gas.

PARKING IN CHESTER

Next, parking in Chester. Below, you will see a map of parking options in Chester for the Tancook Ferry. You can expect all the spots closest to the wharf to be taken - mostly by those who live in Tancook and leave their cars in Chester. But there are usually spots to be had on Water Street, a little north of the wharf. If you are taking a bike with you, or if you want a walk before taking the ferry, there is a parking lot for ferry passengers at the corner of Valley Road and Main Street, which is a 13-minute walk from the wharf. By the way, parking is free in all locations. (We're not in downtown Halifax anymore, people!)

YOUR FERRY EXPERIENCE

So you're now in Chester, you've parked your car, now let's talk about the ferry. The William G. Ernst entered service in 1982 and plies the route daily from Chester to Little Tancook Island, on to Big Tancook Island, then back to Little Tancook and back to Chester. The ferry schedule can be found here: Tancook Ferry | Municipality of The District of Chester, Nova Scotia . Oh, before we go any further, the ferry is free. Yes, FREE. Nova Scotia dropped its provincial ferry fees during COVID, to avoid the ferry personnel from having to collect, and they have never reinstated the fees.

They advise people to arrive at the wharf 15 minutes before departure time. People were already waiting to board when we showed up at 9:55AM for our 10:20AM departure. Be forewarned, it is not an organized queue, and there is no terminal building or shelter. So if it is raining, be prepared. The ferry personnel opened the gang-plank 10 minutes before departure time. They were anxious to have everyone on board so they could start loading the "freight boxes" and "cattle boxes", which can only be loaded once everyone boards. The William G. Ernst is not a car ferry, but advance reservations can be made to take vehicles over; however, this option seems to be available only to residents of the islands or construction companies. Worthy of mention, as well, is that, if you taking a bike on board, the gang-plank can be a bit tricky to manoeuvre with a bike. On the return, we opted to have our bikes hoisted on board in a cattle box. If you choose that option, you will end up waiting 10 minutes to have it offloaded when you disembark

When you board, you have to go inside the passenger cabin. Our crossing was on a Friday mid-morning. We thought Fridays would be light, compared to presumed Saturday loads. But there was hardly an empty seat. Here's a good tip: if it's a nice day, you will want to sit or stand on the upper deck. Once they load the freight, they allow passengers to go upstairs. Those in the know make a mad dash as soon as the stairway is opened. There are only four benches up there, seating a total of 16 people. Don't doddle, or else you won't get a seat. The windows in the passenger cabin are covered in salt spray, so your view will be poor if you stay there for the journey.

There are 380 islands in the bay, so you will see lots of small islands - some with rather expensive homes on them - during the first 10-15 minutes out of Chester. Seals, whales and porpoises are often seen. We saw a pod of porpoises on our outbound sailing.

There is no canteen on the ship, but there are two clean gender-neutral washrooms on board. You would be wise to 'go' before arriving on Tancook.

The trip from Chester to Big Tancook is supposed to take 53 minutes, including the stop at Little Tancook. Depending on how much freight is off-loaded at Little Tancook, it may take a bit longer. Our trip was exactly one hour.

GETTING AROUND TANCOOK

Unless you know someone on the island with a vehicle, you essentially have only two choices: walk or ride your own bike. There are no taxis. There used to be a place to rent bikes (Carolyn's), but that seems to be no more. If you walk, you may need to spend the whole day on Tancook. It's a 30-35 minute one-way walk to the small beach at Southeast Cove from the ferry ramp, and it's a 25-30 minute one-way walk to Hutt's Cove on the northern tip from the ferry ramp. There are 15km of roads on the island.

We had exactly two hours to explore the island, as we arrived at 11:20AM and needed to be dockside again at 1:20PM to get the 1:30PM ferry back. In that time, we rode 11KM, from the ferry to Southeast Cove and back, and then to Hutt's Cove and back. Please note, all the roads are gravel. We didn't encounter a single meter of pavement on the entire island. Also, there are some hills. But generally, it's a rolling sort of countryside, so the bike riding is easy enough. Oh, and please don't lock up your bike if you stop at the Rec Centre or anywhere else: you would insult the townsfolk. I'm sure you could leave your cell phone or wallet anywhere and be confident that it would be returned to you, such is the honesty of Tancook residents.

EATING AND LOO-ING

One of the best things about a day trip is eating! Carolyn's Restaurant has closed, leaving Patrick's Island Bistro as the only for-profit cafe. Patrick's, however, is only open on Saturday and Sunday in the summertime. They offer beer and ice cream, according to a sign we saw. There is, however, a wonderful eating option in the summertime: the Tancook Rec Cafe. Until September, they are open from Tuesday to Saturday and offer daily specials. We met the cook - a wonderful and talented young woman from Calgary, who completed culinary training at the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology and worked for several years as a chef in a downtown Calgary restaurant. A photo of the menu for the day of our visit is shown below, along with the regular menu. Wonderful, high quality food, very reasonably priced, and yes, they accept credit cards. We had taken sandwiches with us, thinking there would be no opportunity to buy food. So we just bought a home-made peach scone and iced coffees. Both were 10/10.

Be aware, there is no store on the island to purchase food, snacks, drinks, etc. So you either have to bring your own or eat at the Tancook Rec Cafe or Patrick's (if open). Oh, if you do bring your own sandwiches, there are picnic tables on Southeast Cove Beach (we ate there), and more on the hilltop overlooking the ferry pier (turn left out of the wharf area, and the picnic spot is right there). There is also a nice picnic area outside the Rec Centre, including a covered area.

Without being too blunt, eating and the loo tend to go hand in hand. Hopefully, you remembered to 'go' on the ferry. But if not, fret not: the Rec Centre has two very clean gender-neutral loos. Even if you don't eat at the Rec Centre, you can still use their loos. We didn't see them, but apparently, there are two outhouses in the field next to the Rec Centre and one outhouse in the field next to the Spruce Grove campsite in Southeast Cove.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

So, what can you see and do on Tancook Island? Once you disembark the ferry, the island is yours to discover, by either exiting the marina to your left or right. Most people, especially if they arrive on the late morning ferry, scramble up the road to the right, to be the first to arrive at the Rec Centre, to partake in the food offerings there and to look at their small assortment of hand-crafts. We recommend the hand-made wooden fridge magnets for $8. The only other retail opportunity is Wishing Stones at Southeast Cove. It's an eclectic sampling of hand-crafts made on the island. We bought a Christmas tree ornament ($4) and some hand-painted note-cards ($5). The genuinely friendly woman who runs Wishing Stones from the building that housed the former Tancook general store, also runs a small museum in the building.

Having filled your belly, having spent your money, what else can you do? Well, there is a small beach at Southeast Cove. We met a woman named Pam who, along with her dog, was cleaning seaweed from the beach, left by the remnants of Hurricane Ernesto last weekend. Pam single-handedly cleans the little beach and ensures a good supply of beach seating (all free), kiddie sand toys, and a fire pit. The water is pristine, so go in for a swim, if you are inclined.

There is a Canada Post Office, a Baptist Church and a cemetery - the latter provides a good overview of the predominant family names of the Island, including Cross and Baker. Bird-watching is popular on Tancook (150 species have been identified), and they also have some wildlife: deer, muskrat, snakes, rabbits, mice, frogs, turtles, river otters. All we saw along the animal-line - apart from beach-keeper Pam's dog - were a few personable goats. We were happy with that. By the way, if you take your dog with you, it has to be on a leash while on Tancook.

Some people look for sea glass, but that is not an interest of ours. Don't forget to snap a pic of one of the last one-room schoolhouses anywhere! It's a green building, you cannot miss it. The only other sight to point out is on the northern tip of the island, in Hutt's Cove: walk on the grassy pathway past the last white house on Big Tancook Island Road, and you'll see some neat rock formations on the water's edge. These are called Devil's Footprints.

Just to cover off all the bases, there is an amazing basketball court next to the Rec Centre, if you want to throw some hoops while you visit and have managed to stuff a B-ball into your knapsack. You'll also find a helicopter landing area nearby - good to know if you need to be evacuated for medical reasons, I guess.

HOW LONG TO SPEND

How long do you need to visit Tancook? Your visit duration will be dictated either by your necessity to get a return ferry on the same day, or by the number of nights for which you have secured accommodation. (There are a few cottages for rent - Google "Sea Glass Cottage", "Cove Cottage", or Tancook Whaler Cottage".) We are here to tell you that you can see everything shown in the pictures contained in this blog within 120 minutes. If you have a bike, it is possible to arrive at 11:20AM, bike 11KM, board the ferry again at 1:20PM, and see all the things that we did. A lot of people wait to get the 4:30PM ferry back to Chester, just to take a more leisurely approach to Tancook than we did.

HOW MUCH ARE WE TALKIN'?

How much will this amazing experience cost you? It's the travel steal of a lifetime! Chester parking: $0. Ferry: $0. Souvenirs: we spent $17. Food: $12 for two ice coffees + massive shared peach scone + tax and tip. Entrance fees to Rec Centre and Wishing Stones: $0. Beach chair rental: $0. As the island is blessed with a great cell tower, your cellphone will work, and that means merchants can accept your credit cards for payment. Yay!

THE BOTTOM LINE

We lucked out with amazing weather and a smooth ferry crossing and, being in the summer peak season, everything was open. Everyone we spoke with was kind, hospitable, and sweet. Now, if you happen to go on a snowy, windy Wednesday in January, I would dare guess that your Tancook experience will be a tad less enjoyable. But who's to say.

We have to be brutally honest: we ignorantly expected to find a few ramshackle houses, some granola-type folks (and I use that term in the the most respectful manner), grass-covered cow paths, and a few cows... What we found was a vibrant, proud community of 200 people (summer count) who work hard to make Tancook the amazing community it is, immaculately-kept gardens, modern homes, lots of vehicles, data for our smart-phones, and lots to see and do.

Hopefully, this blog has provided some helpful hints on preparing for your trip to Tancook. Please learn from our mistake: do not wait 30 years before you head to one of Nova Scotia's most special gems.

Situating Tancook Island.

If coming from HRM, take Exit 7 (if open) or Exit 8 off the #103.

Chester is a ritzy gem of a town!

Street parking along Water Street, just north of the ferry wharf.

See the "P" markings for ferry parking in Chester.

At the ferry wharf.

The William G. Ernst passenger ferry. The NS Government has promised a modern car ferry "soon".

Passengers milling around the wharf, waiting to board. Freight and cattle boxes ready to load.

Inside the passenger cabin on board. Pam (above), Dave (below).

There are four benches on the upper deck. Don't doddle - head upstairs as soon as the freight is loaded and the stairway is opened. Enjoying the voyage from up there is top notch.

The hodge-podge of freight onboard. For our sailing, it included a dump-truck filled with sand.

The William G. Ernst was completed in 1982 and started serving the route that summer.

Some of the 380 islands in the bay.

Pulling into Little Tancook Island's wharf.

The "Little Tancook Island" wharf sign.

Offloading supplies on Little Tancook Island. The ferry is a lifeline to these islands!

The ferry's wake, as we pulled away from Little Tancook Island.

Pulling into Big Tancook Island's wharf.

The sign didn't lie: Finally here!

Pam disembarking the ferry on Big Tancook Island.

The view of the ferry wharf and marina at Big Tancook Island from Big Tancook Island Road.

So this is what Big Tancook Island looks like.

We think it looks like a giant shrimp!

When you exit the marina, you can either turn left to go to Hutt's Cove, or right to go to the Rec Centre and School and on towards Southeast Cove.

The typical Canada Post Office building at Big Tancook Island.

The Baptist Church, sporting a new metal roof and a heat pump. Just because you live on a remote island doesn't mean you shouldn't be able to worship in comfort!

The graveyard outside the Baptist Church.

Love this! A local homeowner provides crucial directional signage!

Nearing the end of the line on Southeast Cove Road.

Meet Pam and her dog! They singlehandedly care for Southeast Cove Beach. It's been a point of pride -- and hard work -- for Pam for decades!

Pam provides many seating choices at the beach, including an old pew from the church.

Pam also provides sand toys for the young -- and the young at heart.

Want to do a beach fire? Pam has got you covered!

We enjoyed our sandwiches overlooking Southeast Cove.

The bullrushes at Southeast Cove.

The goats were friendly at Southeast Cove.

Southeast Cove.

More views of Southeast Cove.

The Wishing Stones Gallery -- and gift shop. And museum!

This spider was HUGE!

Heading back to the ferry area.

Suggestion: if you go to Southwest Cove, either on foot or on bike, take School Road back after you visit Southeast Cove. (We didn't, but should have!)

One of the last one-room schoolhouses anywhere, I'd say. The school offers education up to Grade 5. Enrolment is now down from 30 to 6 kids, leaving the Government of Nova Scotia wondering what to do.